Joakim Andersson

Åttan 3b (repeat, traditional. Did it as one long pitch and got lots of rope drag in the end because I’m stupid!), Direkta Fyrbulten 4b (onsight, traditional. Did it as one long pitch. Quite nice route actually), Spider-pig 5a (onsight), Direttissiman 5a (onsight, traditional. Did it as one long pitch. An old classic that is really nice), Lösa block direkt 6a (onsight. The guide book said three bolts and two pitons but one piton was missing so I got a long runout to the second bolt with quite a ground fall potential. Luckily it was easy climbing!)

Korpen flyger 6- (warm-up), El culo electrico 6 (more warm-up), Spider Dance 7- (one hang), Hövdingen 5+ (this time I actually had a good solution for the start!), Premiären 7- (one hang at the bottom, and one or two at the top). Then the rain came so we left.

Skogshuggar-Lasse 6b+ (I tried to onsight this one as warm-up but thought it was too scary up past the third bolt so I gave up), Mayday 5c (onsight, traditional. Rather easy but nice climbing), Högerkanten 5c (onsight, easier if you are tall), Månskäran 6b (Pretty damned hard for being a 6b especially the move past the second bolt up on the slab finish)

Coach 5b (warm-up), Brown sugar 6b+ (redpoint, it took way too many tries to figure out the straight-up sequence), Ignition 6c+ (I was the closest so far to sending this route. I also took a nice 5-6 meters fall when I lost my balance at the last clip), Nacka kvarn 6c (We tried this route on toprope and it was rather easy, but the sun had arrived at the crag and we were melting away so gave up for the day)

Le pilier 5b-5a (onsight, did the two pitches as one long pitch), Abstiens-toi de glisser 6c+ (the onsight attempt went fine up to the crux getting past the last bolt. The minature crimps were way too small for my big fat fingers! I never figured out a working sequence past that problem), St Ethique 6a (the hardest 6a I have ever tried, naturally I only got 2/3s up before I had to bail. Too scary and too hard).

Les Guêpes 5a (onsight, supposed to be two pitches according to the guide but I couldn’t find the continuation), Cima Quest 6c/7a (chickened out after huge runout to third bolt with delicate climbing), Le Dièdre 5a-5a (onsight, two pitches of 5a climbing shouldn’t be that hard, but this turned into a ordeal getting up the polished dieder), CQrizt 6a (onsight, but only did the first pitch of two), Voyage de noces 6b (only did the first 6b-graded pitch where I went wrong with the left hand on the onsight attempt and was too tired to try again).

L’incal feutré 5c/6a (onsight), Vipere lubrique 5c (onsight), Psycho killer (unknown grade, and I hade to pull in an express to get past the crux), Tamagotchi 6a+ (second go, on the onsight attempt I tried to use a sharp pocket that made me loose the feeling of a finger tip for five minutes. Scary!), Distribution de topinambours 5c+ (onsight).