DIREQUIEM 5.14 R from Sonnie Trotter on Vimeo.
With Uppsala getting even more snow today we can need a video of Sonnie Trotter climbing Direquiem 5.14 R at Dumbarton Rock to get inspired for the spring that will eventually arrive.
Daniel Woods Loves the Solution from La Sportiva on Vimeo.
I don’t climb nearly as hard as Daniel Woods but I still love the Solution shoe. It’s just too bad they are so bloody expensive here in Sweden.
They redid the routes at the local climbing wall end of last week, and when we were there on Sunday I focused on lead onsighting lots of blue labeled routes (roughly F6a to F6b+) which naturally went quite fine. The positive thing was that I didn’t feel anything in my finger!
Yesterday we were back at the wall and I continued lead onsighting some blue routes but when I finally figured I had to try my finger on something harder. So I tried to “toprope-onsight” a red labeled route (F6c-F7a+) and I fell on the next to last move due to exhaustion and stupidity. But never mind that, the important thing is that my finger felt fine!
Hopefully I can now gradually go back to climbing harder routes again.
Will Stanhope from Alex Lavigne – ALIAS CINEMA on Vimeo.
Turn up the volume and enjoy!
The Black Diamond QC Lab have done some testing on old ropes and got maybe not surprising but still scary results.
The rope broke already at a force of 6 kN which equals what a 5mm nylon cord can handle according to (Climbing Gear Strength Ratings). The same page lists 9 kN as the theoretical max. force possible in a climbing fall.
Keep that in mind when spring arrives and you take out your old rope again.
Untitled from Jonas Paulsson on Vimeo.
The Crackoholic movie looks like it’s going to be great!
7 days of climbing, 37 routes from 4c to 6c+. 29 onsights, 1 flash, 1 redpoint and 6 routes done with one or more hangs.
A great week was had in the Ogliastra region on Sardinia.
Manolo tops vertical slab climbing with Eternit at Baule – climbing news, mountaineering.
“On 24/08/2009 Maurizio Manolo Zanolla made the first ascent of ‘Eternit’, the extension to ‘O ce l’hai… o ne hai bisogno’ at Baule. The grade put forward is 9a but above all Manolo believes this route has taken his vertical slab climbing into a completely new dimension.”
Manolo is amazing. I hope I can climb as hard as him when I get older!
I think I’ve ended up with some kind of summer flu. I’m not sure how it happened but it started on Saturday when I didn’t have any energy or strength when we were out climbing. On Sunday it got worse with me feeling somewhat nauseous all day combined with a headache and pain in the muscles and joints. I had no energy at all and felt all exhausted the whole day.
When I woke up Monday morning I felt more tired than the previous night but I still somehow managed to drag myself to work and in the evening we went climbing indoors as planned. Naturally that went quite crap as my fingers and joints were sore already before I started to climb but I’m a stubborn man so I did climb a bit. However, we cut the session short as we quickly got totally wasted.
This morning my foggy head finally felt a bit clearer and I actually had some energy left when I went home from work this afternoon. Hopefully that means I’ll feel even better tomorrow and I’ll be rid of this strange flu shortly.
I really like this photo of Camilla I took at the top of the Häggsta cliff last weekend.
Funny thing is that we left from home at around 10 in the morning and we returned around 12 hours later. A long day, but a long day filled with fun climbing!