I haven’t tried that many 6a routes so I can’t say I’m comfortable onsighting all 6a routes I try, but at least the ones I’ve done so far have felt quite alright.
Redpointing-wise 6b/6b+ does not feel much like a challenge, so I went straight to work on a 6c route which I haven’t succeeded with yet but it’s just a matter of time.
This rapid progress naturally makes me greedy for my first 7a this summer but the 7a routes I’ve tried so far feel so hard and difficult. On a route I can usually do all the individual moves on toprope but linking them together just feels impossible. Each difficult move is like a maximal performance and after a few of those I’m all done for and need to rest.
It might sound like I’m out of shape but I’m in better climbing shape than ever before. But I’m starting to think that it’s not enough for those 7a routes. It feels like it’s a lack of finger strength that’s holding me back but it could as well be poor technique that makes me over-use the fingers. More strength is not always the answer which is one of the charms with climbing. The frustrating thing though, is that I don’t know if it’s strength of skill I’m lacking.
Hopefully I’ll get better by climbing more harder routes, or at least I’ll get more used to them. It’s just so annoying to feel that I can almost do it but at the same time that almost feels so distant. But I do get sore in muscles I didn’t even know I had, so I must be doing something right.
I have done lots of working on the same few routes lately and I’m starting to wonder if I’m not more of an onsight-climber. I like the idea of new adventures and new challenges more than doing the same sequence for the n:th time trying to make it perfect to send that one route.
I much prefer to climb into the unknown where I have to make up the solutions on the fly and quickly adapt to new conditions. That makes me more focused and as a result I climb better.
Maybe I’m odd but that’s how I feel right now.