I was happy to read this morning in Sonnie Trotters blog that he and Cory have decided to postpone their return to Canada again, this time with another week. Hopefully the additional three to four climbing days will be enough for Sonnie to finally get to the top of Rhapsody. He’s getting closer and closer all the time and there is no doubt that he can do it. It’s just a matter of getting all the pieces to work together during one attempt.
Sonnie and Dave MacLeod are my inspiration when it comes to climbing hard traditional style. Naturally I am nowhere close to their levels, me being the happy hobby climber, but it’s anyhow fun to read about their projects, their hard work and the commitment they show.
I had a fun adventure last week when I tried to onsight a 6c mix-route at a local crag. There are two bolts during the first thin technical part of the route, after that there is another 6-7 meters to the top. From the safety of the second bolt I could see a potential placement 3 meters up but I would not know if I could use it until I climbed up there, way up over the bolt with a potential fall to the ground if I fell.
Pretty scary stuff. But it turned out to be a textbook cam placement so after I got that in and the rope clipped I felt quite relieved. Only to be rudely awoken again when I inspected the last 3-4 meters of climbing. Unfortunately no more placements, so it would be a rather long fall onto my recently placed cam if I would slip off before I clipped the anchor. Luckily the climbing proved to be easy even though the mental aspect made it more difficult than it really was.
This small adventure made me realize how big the mental aspect must be for Dave and Sonnie when they do their spectacular climbs. Not to mention the guys onsighting hard routes traditional style. That is really hard code!