Yesterday me and Camilla went out climbing in the evening even though there had been the occasional rain shower during the day. In the evening the sky was all blue and the sun was shining, which was promising. But the local crag is in a dark and shadow place in the forest, which sucks, but does make it climbable during the really hot summer days.
It usually takes a while for the rock to dry but we were lucky and two routes were mostly dry, so we put up a top rope and started climbing.
During the warmup run the bottom crack felt easy but the upper 7a continuation felt impossibly hard. I couldn’t figure out how to get the 1.5 meters to the right where I needed to be and quite a few of the crucial holds were wet and slippery. It really felt like I had no chance whatsoever of doing this route any time soon.
After Camilla found some hidden crap foot placements the second run felt much better. I even managed to do the move to the right by inventing a sick sequence!
With my right hand on a good hold in the crack above my head and the left hand above the right on a sharp small sidepull I put my right foot 1.5 dm above my left foot on a semi-good hold. Then I cross in with the left foot quite up and far to the right on to a poor foot placement. I move the weight over to the left foot, control my balance, let the right foot swing over far to the right onto a good placement and reach up and grab a jug with my right hand.
If done properly it requires no effort whatsoever! Just a bit of precise balance control. That move made the whole evening worth it, even though it was wet, cold and miserable.
The upper part of the route is easier but compensates by being sharp and painful. With better conditions it shouldn’t be too hard though. So overall I went home with a positive feeling yesterday. It might not take that long to do that route after all.