The summer vacation so far

The second week of my three week long summer vacation just started and as I haven’t written that much lately I thought I would give a brief summary of what has happened so far.

We kicked off the vacation on Saturday by going climbing in Skevik. I finally got to know where the Icones 6c+ route goes so I led it with a few hangs as warm-up. When the others had done it on top-rope it was my turn to lead it for real. I did alright up to the thin part of the upper crux where I didn’t know where to place my right foot. I placed it wrong and lost my balance when I reached with my hand.

I was a bit above the last bolt and fell like 6-7 meters. The fall got longer because Camilla got lifted way clear of the ground. But it’s good exercise to take a long fall every now and then!

On Sunday we had time to order our new kitchen from Ikea before leaving to the summer cottage just outside of Mora.

In between reading in the sun, swimming in the lake and a tour to the top of the local mountain, we had time for two trips to Vitturn for climbing. Vitturn is a small sport climbing crag in Älvdalen, about an hour with car from the cottage. The first day we had excellent conditions, overcast and not to warm. I onsighted two 6b routes, one 6a mixed route and failed when trying to onsight two 6b+ routes. So quite a decent day for me.

On the second climbing day we were promised “high clouds” and decent temperatures. Unfortunately the clouds went missing and the sun was beating down on us. At around 30 degrees in the shade and most of the crag in direct sun we were melting away. I onsighted two traditional routes, one 5c (as warmup) and one 5a. Except for that I didn’t get much done all day. We tried Sarajevo by night 7a but I had no chance in the heat and fell off constantly. We moved on to Sköna myran 6c+ which I almost did when I was feeling hangover on the midsummer day. Today it was impossible even on toprope. Next we tried Variant av Fungus 6c, but still no good. It sounds like we suck, which I guess we might do, but I blame the sun for the disaster day.

We had actually planned for a third climbing day but the forecast for Saturday said constant rain and SMHI was right for once. So I spent the day indoors reading instead. Now we’ve almost tried all routes at Vitturn so on the next visit to Dalarna we might check out the climbing at Wäsaberget. But as I can’t find a guide over the area that will be an exciting adventure.

Since we got back from the cottage Camilla has cleaned her old apartment for the photo shoot tomorrow. The ad on the net will go out later this week and hopefully the apartment will get sold without too much problems. I’ve finished the paperwork for my old car and it’s now officially sold.