Nacka Kvarn


SMHI had promised good weather for Sunday so we spend Saturday fetching a sofa from Stockholm and getting rid of junk from the basement. Naturally when we woke up Saturday morning the good weather was nowhere to be seen. A quick look at the forecast said rain showers during the morning but better weather during the afternoon and evening.

We still decided to go to Nacka Kvarn as planned, and we figured if the weather was crap we could just go to Klätterverket and climb indoors instead. In the car on the way to the crag we pass quite a bit of rain so we don’t have any high hopes when we walk from the parking to the base of the crag.

On the approach we meet two other climbers who bring good news. Most of the overhanging sections are dry! This being our first visit to Nacka Kvarn we had no idea that the 10 to 15 meter high slightly overhanging walls were so resistent to water. The other climbers were going to hang a top rope on Brown sugar, 6b+ and with the rest of the easier routes wet I decide to give Hundra år av ensamhet, 6c+ a half-hearted onsight attempt as the warm-up.

With two vertical crimpy 6c routes being my best onsights so far, I didn’t really expect to get far on an overhanging 6c+ onsight when I’m not even warmed up. But what can one do.

The start of the route is easy enough but when I get half way up I have to take a rest in the rope as the cold granite together with my cold stiff fingers make for quite some pain. After warming my fingers I climb easily up to the crux where I have to hang in the rope again and try a few different sequences before I figure it out. I’m pretty happy with that performance.

Camilla warms up on the same route on toprope and then I do another lead attempt, but I fall at the crux. After a coffee and lunch break I do another attempt, my best so far, but I get my thumb a bit wrong on the crimp in the crux and I don’t have the strength to compensate with the rest of my body, so off I fly.

Camilla has a few good attempts on toprope but she is shorter so where I can hold the jugs and have good feet she’s got hardly anything for her feet from the same holds. That makes it quite a bit harder.

After that we’ve had it with that route. Just as we pull down the rope it starts raining, so the plan to climb Stockholm’s maybe only bolted grade 3 route is ruined. I take a walk to look at the rest of the cliff and I find the short but very overhanging Miraculix, 6a+. I’ve never climbed anything as overhanging outside so naturally I have to give it a try.

Yet again I screw up an easy onsight due to I don’t know what, lack of concentration maybe. But I make up for it a while later when I successfully onsight the short one-move-route Krucifix, 6c. The route actually stands as 6c+ in Sverigeföraren but that’s just not true, so I go with the 6c grade given in the new Stockholmsföraren.

Overall we had a nice day at Nacka Kvarn and there are plenty of fun routes left for us to do, so we shall return!