With a sunny weather forecast we left home early in the morning for the two hour drive down to Bistaberget outside of Nyköping. We went there in the beginning of spring last year and we’ve longed back ever since.
Quasimodo 6b+ (Onsight. Today’s warm-up route. Just the moves past the first two bolts that are 6b+), Via Veterano 6b (Onsight. Quite intensive climbing on small crimps), En glad bastart 6b+ (Tried this twice, one onsight attempt and one redpoint attempt. But I couldn’t figure out the odd move left between the second and third bolt), Likplundraren 6c+ & Lilla flickan zombie 7a (First I tried to onsight Likplundraren but I found the combined start for the two routes to be very sequencial, so I gave up the onsighting quite quickly. At the point where the routes seperated I tried to go up right but I found the move up beside the alcove both hard and scary. Instead I went up two bolts on Lilla flickan zombie and traversed out right and up to Likplundraren’s anchor when I found the runout to Lilla flickan zombie’s anchor to be too scary for me to climb without practise. With the rope up I tried Lilla flickan zombie on toprope and did the lower joined part easily when I knew the sequences. I continued up to the point where I had left the route the previous climb and the 2-3 moves past the last bolt proved, as I suspected, to be the crux so I had to hang and try a few different variations until I found a working sequence through it. With a bit of further practise it shouldn’t be too hard to lead that route but with one visit a year so far it might take a while.), Ättestupan 5b (Redpoint. After the hard routes we wanted to climb something easier, so we did this nice route which we did last year as well), Återvändsgränden 6c+ (I almost onsighed this but missed a crucial foothold for the right foot and fell in the crux), Helgonet 6a+ (Toprope. Two routes in a row as the last climbing for this day), Söndagspromenad 5a (Toprope. Funny how a 5a can feel hard when you are tired)