Climbing hiatus

The situation with the DIP joint on my right middle finger has reached a point where I can’t ignore it any longer. The pain has come and gone for more than six months now but the swelling has never gone down.

A more accurate comparison would be my two middle fingers next to each other but as I needed one hand for the camera you have to make do with comparing the swollen middle finger DIP joint with the other fingers on the same hand.


Since late autumn I’ve only climbed easier routes in the gym and the last months the pain has got better and I actually thought things were heading the right way. But two weeks ago I tried a few harder routes and even though I didn’t feel anything right then things got drastically worse from that point on. Last Monday I could hardly climb, basically the only grip position that didn’t hurt with the right hand was a two finger pinch with the thumb and index finger.

To give my finger a chance to heal for good I’m going to take a month of climbing. With spring just arriving to Uppsala and everyone else getting ready for serious outdoor climbing it’s a hard decision to make. But hopefully by resting now I will be able to climb all through the summer and autumn and not ruin the complete season which climbing outdoors in my current situation most likely would do.

But what would a “sick leave” be without medication?


I took a trip to the pharmacy today and got some pills! Of the above I guess the Omega-3 and Glucosamine might actually help my DIP joint if one is to believe all the witchcraft on the climbing forums.

The multi-vitamin pills will probably not make much of a difference but hopefully the new kind of anti-inflammatory gel will help. The current one we have at home is next to useless. I’ll try to be more consistent with the hot-cold treatment as well.

Don’t think that I’ll sit on my butt this coming four weeks. I’ll try to run as much as possible so that I will hopefully get closer to 80 kilos than 90 kilos. And I’ll work on those core exercises. Maybe I’ll finally get that six-pack! Hah.