Bistaberget

Posted: October 4th, 2009 | Author: Joakim Andersson | Filed under: ascents | No Comments »

bistaberget.jpg

2009-09-19

With a sunny weather forecast we left home early in the morning for the two hour drive down to Bistaberget outside of Nyköping. We went there in the beginning of spring last year and we’ve longed back ever since.

Quasimodo 6b+ (Onsight. Today’s warm-up route. Just the moves past the first two bolts that are 6b+), Via Veterano 6b (Onsight. Quite intensive climbing on small crimps), En glad bastart 6b+ (Tried this twice, one onsight attempt and one redpoint attempt. But I couldn’t figure out the odd move left between the second and third bolt), Likplundraren 6c+ & Lilla flickan zombie 7a (First I tried to onsight Likplundraren but I found the combined start for the two routes to be very sequencial, so I gave up the onsighting quite quickly. At the point where the routes seperated I tried to go up right but I found the move up beside the alcove both hard and scary. Instead I went up two bolts on Lilla flickan zombie and traversed out right and up to Likplundraren’s anchor when I found the runout to Lilla flickan zombie’s anchor to be too scary for me to climb without practise. With the rope up I tried Lilla flickan zombie on toprope and did the lower joined part easily when I knew the sequences. I continued up to the point where I had left the route the previous climb and the 2-3 moves past the last bolt proved, as I suspected, to be the crux so I had to hang and try a few different variations until I found a working sequence through it. With a bit of further practise it shouldn’t be too hard to lead that route but with one visit a year so far it might take a while.), Ättestupan 5b (Redpoint. After the hard routes we wanted to climb something easier, so we did this nice route which we did last year as well), Återvändsgränden 6c+ (I almost onsighed this but missed a crucial foothold for the right foot and fell in the crux), Helgonet 6a+ (Toprope. Two routes in a row as the last climbing for this day), Söndagspromenad 5a (Toprope. Funny how a 5a can feel hard when you are tired)


Ryssgraven

Posted: August 27th, 2009 | Author: Joakim Andersson | Filed under: ascents | No Comments »

Dagen efter 6a (Onsight. Quite nice actually), Dimman lättar 5c (Onsight), **Pytheas resa till thule 6a+ (Onsight. Soft. One move that might possibly be 6a+:ish)


Fjärdhundra

Posted: August 24th, 2009 | Author: Joakim Andersson | Filed under: ascents | No Comments »

Hövdingen 5c (Redpoint, warm-up), Mapumbe 6b+ (one hang due to messed up hand sequence, did it on toprope afterwards for additional warm-up), Huggormen 7a (I did three tries. On the first I put up the draws and figured out from where to do the third clip. On the second and third tries I got through the crux only to go off when I got my left fingers a bit wrong on a crucial hold. Next time I’ll do it for sure!), La via del chato 6b+ (One hang as my memory failed me and I went a bit wrong, did it twice on toprope after to end the evening)


Fjärdhundra

Posted: August 20th, 2009 | Author: Joakim Andersson | Filed under: ascents | No Comments »

Twist 6b (Redpoint, warm-up), Apor på åkern 6c+ (Did three tries, on the second and third try I went off just at the top when I placed my left foot wrong), Huggormen 7a (I hadn’t tried this route before but it wasn’t as hard as I thought it would be. I did it bolt to bolt to get the rope up and then on toprope I quickly figured out the crux and did the crux moves twice. Then linked from the crux to the top easily), Korpen flyger 6a (Redpoint), El culo electrico 6b (Toprope)


Tumbo

Posted: August 9th, 2009 | Author: Joakim Andersson | Filed under: ascents | No Comments »

Reliken 4c (Flash), Spökvinden 5a (Onsight, traditional), Okänt 5b (Flash), Nordinilino 5a (Onsight), Ständig skörlevnad 5b (Flash), Främligen 5a (Flash), Tallgläntan 5c (Onsight, traditional), Sprickan 5b (Flash), SPA 6a (Onsight), Il bouno 5b (Flash), Trio 5a (Flash), Cosa Nostra 6c (Tried the start but I was too tired from the heat and a day of climbing), Il brutto 5c (Onsight).


Predikstolen

Posted: August 4th, 2009 | Author: Joakim Andersson | Filed under: ascents | No Comments »

Maginotlinjen 6b+ (Redpoint, repeat, warm-up), Azincourt 6c (Toprope, it took like four tries until I got all the bloody sequences right. I’m quite impressed that I lead it on pre-placed gear last year), Stöldförsök 7a (I was too tired when we finally got around putting the rope on this one.)


Fiby

Posted: July 29th, 2009 | Author: Joakim Andersson | Filed under: ascents | Tags: | No Comments »

Noname 4C (redpoint), Noname 3A (flash), Noname 5B (flash), Calles Arête 5A (flash. Felt a bit high and scary at the top), Noname 5A (redpoint. The mantle is the crux and I’m no good at those. Felt like I was about to topple backwards any second), Stora Scenen 5C (I tried this a few times but I never figured out what to do with the right hand)


Gåseborg

Posted: July 25th, 2009 | Author: Joakim Andersson | Filed under: ascents | No Comments »

Diktator 6b (Redpoint, repeat. First try this year though. Quite a nice route really and the runout isn’t at all as bad as I remembered), Blitz 6b (Redpoint), Tonys led 6c (On the second try I had the bottom and the top parts figured out, but the middle part still beats me. I’m too weak to make the move to the right from the two small crappy crimps…), Propaganda 7a (I tried this long-moves-between-sharp-crimps route, and it wasn’t too bad but I didn’t have the strength for it today), Kristallnatten 6c+ (I got totally shutdown on the move from the undercling. It was possible to get the left hand on some crappy crimps but as soon as I let go with my right hand I went off)


Gullhamra

Posted: July 18th, 2009 | Author: Joakim Andersson | Filed under: ascents | No Comments »

Jennie 6a+ (I took repeated falls on this planned warmup onsight. The route didn’t suit me at all with lots of odd moves and strange body positions), Utan känslor 6b+ (95% of the route is easy but I think the crux was quite stiff for the grade and I had huge problems clipping the anchor because my fingers were so pumped), Bror Duktig 6b (onsight. Finally I managed to get up a route! Rather easy with jugs all the way though a bit steeper at the end), Gylta 6c+ (I gave this route one real try, the first time up I had to hang at a few places to figure out the sequences. On the redpoint attempt I had clipped the last bolt and only had the long stretch to the good crimp left but I couldn’t get my feet correct for the turn-in and lock-off from the crappy sidepull for the left hand. Next time!)


Predikstolen

Posted: July 15th, 2009 | Author: Joakim Andersson | Filed under: ascents | No Comments »

Högmässan 6 (toprope. The alternative more direct start), the mosquitoes where horrible so we escaped to the smaller upper wall which was a bit better, Great wall 6c+ (This route is all about micro crimps with bad feet, so good exercise for me. I got about two-thirds up before I got shut down by a long stretch up to the left from a tiny list because I had nowhere to place my feet. Camilla being a bit shorter got her feet higher up and managed to do the move without too much difficulty), Orange mecanique 7a (another micro crimp route but with some laybacking and lots of body tension added so it suited me better. It was hard in the middle though where I did an acrobatic maneuver to get my right foot high so I could reach up with my right hand but after I got the gaston I couldn’t move an inch without flying off. So I guess I need to work on the body tension.)