Painkillers

We’ve spent the previous two weekends working on the walls in the basement doing cement rendering.

The walls look great! However, the price for this is an overused wrist that hurts pretty much constantly. Last week the pain was almost gone on Friday only to return in force after a few hours work in the basement on Saturday.

This week the wrist feels worse and I’ve got a hard lump that hurts when pressed. So this will unfortunately be another week on painkillers with no climbing.

This house is ruining my climbing!

Long evenings

cragging.jpg

Camilla on the way to an evening session at a crag in Stockholm

With the sun setting at around 22 in the evening this time of the year is perfect for going climbing on weekdays when the workday is over. All the climbing combined with lots to do at work before the summer holidays, not to mention our garden which is really coming to life now, has made for less that the usual amount of writing here.

But I’m still here, no need to worry.

Alex Honnold and Uli Steck making a run at the Nose speed record

The big news today as reported by Tom Evans in the ElCap Report for the 19th of May on his excellent ElCap Report site.

Alex Honnold and Uli Steck teaming up to make a run at the Nose record and National Geographic is there to film it!

The big news of the day was Alex Honnold and Uli Steck teaming up to make a run at the Nose record, set last year by Hans and Yuji at 2:37:05. The two met last night for the first time and were on the route by 8:20am. Alex lead the parts that I could see, wearing a pack no less, as he had done the route several times and Uli climbed second, never having been on the route. National Geographic is filming the event and the local boys are getting the manual labor done. Ropes are strung down the face to the Great Roof for the film crew. Local Mikie Schafer is working on the filming and directing.

Anyway the lads were out for a familiarization run today and looked to have learned a lot of what not to do! They passed a horde of climbers along the way with no difficulties. They threw down an impressive 4:45 for their first climb together. They are going tomorrow for another run and then we will see what their schedule will be.

Be sure to follow the ElCap Report to see how the drama unfolds. This will be exciting!

Yuji Hirayama

I’m not sure what it is with Japanese culture but I find their mindset fascinating. Just compare Yuji’s thoughts on climbing with what you hear in most climbing movies. Not that there is anything wrong with the other views but for me it’s like Yuji is thinking on another level.

FREE RANGE TURKEY_dispatch #7 from camp4 collective on Vimeo.

Kulberget

Kulberget, Stockholm

Morning in the archipelago

In Swedish the name gives you the impression that it might actually be fun to climb there. In a way it was. If you are into scarcely protected steep slab climbing it might be the perfect crag for you. Personally I like my climbing a bit more secure so we resorted to top-roping after I failed to lead up the warm-up route.

The beach

The beach

The location is beautiful though, just next to the water with a beach not far away.

Cinderella

Some boat traffic

Camilla climbing

Camilla climbing Pas de deux, 6a+

They say you’re supposed to train your weaknesses. That’s something I really did on Sunday!

Outdoor premiere

After my four weeks of forced rest from climbing I finally got my season outdoor premiere at Ekoberget, Stockholm on Sunday.

Camilla climbing För forna klätterfantaster 5c, Ekoberget, Stockholm

Camilla moments before the first time on rock this outdoor season.

Unsure about how much I had lost during the rest period me and Camilla started easy by warming up on För forna klätterfantaster 5c which didn’t feel that hard climbing wise but the route was in the shadow and the rock was so cold my hands went numb. That made it quite hard to climb, but I got up in the end.

Camilla climbing Ekoturism 6c, Ekoberget, Stockholm

Camilla cruising Ekoturism 6c.

We continued with Ekoturism 6c. I tried to onsight that route about a year ago but failed. All I remembered though was that the first two-thirds of the route was quite easy, then a no-hands rest followed but a tricky finish.

This year it went much better. I got up to the rest, tried to recover my weak muscles the best I could before I with determination went into the crux and got through to the top without too much trouble.

I’m happy with this considering it is pretty much an onsight as didn’t remember any sequences or details from last year.

Next I tried to onsight the neighbor route Prima Ballerina, 6c+. I got through the tricky sections in the lower part and found a decent rest with two bolts left until the anchor. Only the crux left before my first 6c+ onsight! I tried my hardest, but unfortunately it took 4-5 tries with hanging on the rope between tries before I figured out the sequence that worked for me.

Camilla climbing Wiwaxia 6c/6c+, Ekoberget, Stockholm

Camilla fighting her way up Wiwaxia 6c/6c+.

After lunch break with coffee we tried Wiwaxia 6c/6c+. What a misery! It took all I had to get the rope up. A bit of comfort that Camilla got stuck and agreed that the route is pretty damn hard. I did figure out and did all the sequences on toprope but with hangs in-between. Some of those moves are out-of-this-world hard!

Me enjoying the spring sun

Me enjoying the spring sun.

Great spring day to be out climbing! And really awesome to be climbing again after four weeks off.

Keep On Climbing

Today’s song is The Magnificent Men – Keep On Climbing.

The plan is to go climbing outdoors tomorrow, the first time this spring! Hopefully my finger feels better after the four week climbing hiatus.

Crackoholic

The Sends Crackoholic from Shawn Boye on Vimeo.

Two weeks into the forced four weeks rest from climbing my lust for climbing is higher than ever. Unfortunately the joint is healing slowly, if at all. If it’s not better after the break I guess I’ll have to go and see a doctor and get a proper diagnose.

While waiting for things to get better I get inspired for my come back by watching Scott Mooney cruise Crackoholic in Ulorna, Bohuslän, Sweden.