Climbing hiatus

The situation with the DIP joint on my right middle finger has reached a point where I can’t ignore it any longer. The pain has come and gone for more than six months now but the swelling has never gone down.

A more accurate comparison would be my two middle fingers next to each other but as I needed one hand for the camera you have to make do with comparing the swollen middle finger DIP joint with the other fingers on the same hand.


Since late autumn I’ve only climbed easier routes in the gym and the last months the pain has got better and I actually thought things were heading the right way. But two weeks ago I tried a few harder routes and even though I didn’t feel anything right then things got drastically worse from that point on. Last Monday I could hardly climb, basically the only grip position that didn’t hurt with the right hand was a two finger pinch with the thumb and index finger.

To give my finger a chance to heal for good I’m going to take a month of climbing. With spring just arriving to Uppsala and everyone else getting ready for serious outdoor climbing it’s a hard decision to make. But hopefully by resting now I will be able to climb all through the summer and autumn and not ruin the complete season which climbing outdoors in my current situation most likely would do.

But what would a “sick leave” be without medication?


I took a trip to the pharmacy today and got some pills! Of the above I guess the Omega-3 and Glucosamine might actually help my DIP joint if one is to believe all the witchcraft on the climbing forums.

The multi-vitamin pills will probably not make much of a difference but hopefully the new kind of anti-inflammatory gel will help. The current one we have at home is next to useless. I’ll try to be more consistent with the hot-cold treatment as well.

Don’t think that I’ll sit on my butt this coming four weeks. I’ll try to run as much as possible so that I will hopefully get closer to 80 kilos than 90 kilos. And I’ll work on those core exercises. Maybe I’ll finally get that six-pack! Hah.


They redid the routes at the local climbing wall end of last week, and when we were there on Sunday I focused on lead onsighting lots of blue labeled routes (roughly F6a to F6b+) which naturally went quite fine. The positive thing was that I didn’t feel anything in my finger!

Yesterday we were back at the wall and I continued lead onsighting some blue routes but when I finally figured I had to try my finger on something harder. So I tried to “toprope-onsight” a red labeled route (F6c-F7a+) and I fell on the next to last move due to exhaustion and stupidity. But never mind that, the important thing is that my finger felt fine!

Hopefully I can now gradually go back to climbing harder routes again.

Climbing in Sardinia


7 days of climbing, 37 routes from 4c to 6c+. 29 onsights, 1 flash, 1 redpoint and 6 routes done with one or more hangs.

A great week was had in the Ogliastra region on Sardinia.

Manolo tops vertical slab climbing with Eternit at Baule

Manolo tops vertical slab climbing with Eternit at Baule – climbing news, mountaineering.

“On 24/08/2009 Maurizio Manolo Zanolla made the first ascent of ‘Eternit’, the extension to ‘O ce l’hai… o ne hai bisogno’ at Baule. The grade put forward is 9a but above all Manolo believes this route has taken his vertical slab climbing into a completely new dimension.”

Manolo is amazing. I hope I can climb as hard as him when I get older!

Summer flu

I think I’ve ended up with some kind of summer flu. I’m not sure how it happened but it started on Saturday when I didn’t have any energy or strength when we were out climbing. On Sunday it got worse with me feeling somewhat nauseous all day combined with a headache and pain in the muscles and joints. I had no energy at all and felt all exhausted the whole day.

When I woke up Monday morning I felt more tired than the previous night but I still somehow managed to drag myself to work and in the evening we went climbing indoors as planned. Naturally that went quite crap as my fingers and joints were sore already before I started to climb but I’m a stubborn man so I did climb a bit. However, we cut the session short as we quickly got totally wasted.

This morning my foggy head finally felt a bit clearer and I actually had some energy left when I went home from work this afternoon. Hopefully that means I’ll feel even better tomorrow and I’ll be rid of this strange flu shortly.