Part 6 Climbing Sierra De Toix

Sierra de Toix - Toix Oeste

The Sierra de Toix area is located at the coast right above the ocean between Altea and Calpe. The drive there from Sella takes just under an hour, take the road from Sella to Villa Joiosa, then get on the AP-7 highway in the direction towards Valencia and get off at the Calpe-Altea exit and head towards Calpe on the N332 road. After a while you’ll pass through a tunnel, this is actually the Mascarat climbing area, after the tunnel you’ll have a hill-mountain-something on your right side and you’ll drive next to it for a few hundred meters until you get out towards the ocean again and a left turn. Here you are supposed to turn right into the Maryvilla village area. The Maryvilla sign is right at the turn so pay attention, we missed it the first time and had to do a U-turn further along the road. Once inside Maryvilla it’s pretty easy to get lost in the huge village area but just follow the directions in the rockfax guide and you should be alright.

Don’t bother taking the N332 all the way even if you might think it’s more scenic, it’s not, all you get to see is the many red lights and huge queues going through Altea and you will end up spending forever in the car. The fee for going on the AP-7 is just 2.05 euro and it’s clearly worth the money.

The road

We made two trips to the Toix, the first day we spent in the Toix Oesta / Upper / Far Oeste area and the second time we went to the Toix TV – Tropical Dreams section. The drive up to Toix TV is quite something and I many times on the way up and down wished we had a 4×4 jeep instead of a tiny Fiat Panda. But with some careful driving it’s possible to get up the steep gravel road and past the car wrecking holes. The scenery is amazing so if you do go up there bring a camera!

Scenary

We didn’t walk all the way to the Toix TV section but rather stayed in the first Toix TV – Tropical Dreams section where we thought we would warm up before heading on. Unfortunately this was the sixth climbing day in a row and it should really with hindsight have been a rest day, with lacking mental and physical strength we gave up after lunch.

Please be careful if you go climbing at the Tropical Dreams section as quite a few of the anchors were single bolt ones. I don’t personally understand the idea behind a single bolt anchor. I thought the definition of an anchor was two points or more.. Not all anchors are single bolt ones, in some places there are proper two bolt anchors with a chain between and in other places the single bolt is backed up with dry sun-burned dodgy looking threads.

Maria

The Toix Oeste area is full of easy to medium difficult multi pitch routes. It’s the perfect place to begin your multi pitch career. It’s not too steep and the stands are fairly comfortable, not like the hanging ones at Sella. You will, however, discover what “protected by threads” means. A thread is basically a piece of prussik cord tied through a hole in the rock. You just clip a quickdraw in the thread and the rope in the quickdraw. It usually works quite alright but a fair amount of those threads look quite sun burned…

It might be a good idea to bring a knife and some thread of your own so you can replace the worst looking ones, or you can do like I did, put in a few wires and cams for added safety.

Sunset

Don’t let this scare you away from Toix Oeste though, as it brilliantly fun climbing if you’re new to multi pitching and want to start with some fairly easy routes. The location is amazing too, with a great view of the ocean and quite a sensation of being high up as you can see the ocean a few hundred meters below you. At the end of the day we watched the sun set over Altea and the mountains. A perfect ending of a perfect day!

Enérgico

There are not many harder routes in the Toix Oeste area but if you do want to try something more difficult I recommend the Enérgico 6a+ route to the far right in Toix Far Oeste section. This slightly overhanging tufa route is lots of fun!